For Dads, Grads & Other Lads: College Cuff Links

If you're still looking for a graduation present for a young man leaving college, or something for Father's Day, we'd like to suggest a pair of "College Colors" cuff links by the rather oddly-named (but very fine) American company, Baade II. Here at FA2L, we have a real horror of one-sided, "T"-backed or otherwise cheap-looking cuff links, but these beauties are the real deal: solid sterling silver or gold, with beautiful, hand-enameled cloisonné or champlevé vitreous faces. And the range of colors is extensive, so the school–and the man–you want to honor are sure to be represented.  

Brit Fashion: An Empire Built on Understatement

We'll quickly admit (at the drop of a chapeau, in fact) to loving most things French, but–surprise, surprise!–we're also closet Anglophiles. Why? Pretty peaches-and-cream complexions, witty turns-of-phrase and manners honed to kill with such kindness, you don't realize you've been stabbed until your adversary's left the room. Glorious. Then, there are all those retro-minded clothing and accessories companies dating back a hundred years or so–the Mackintoshes, Harris Tweeds and Globe-Trotters of the world–still turning out quirky-but-practical classics (now with modern twists). What would we do without them?

Another name on the list is Sunspel, a brand we've long admired for making underwear and tee shirts so old-fashioned, they look new again. This one's been around since 1860 (when Queen Victoria sat on the throne), but in recent years the company's been updating its image while remaining slightly under the sweep of Fashion's radar. But that may soon change. This summer, Sunspel is launching a collection of polo shirts and tees drawn from its archives, and we suspect lots of stylish guys (and girls) will want to own at least one. As they say, order now to avoid disappointment. And wave that Union Jack with pride.

Photograph courtesy of Sunspel

At Zilli, Perfection Is All in the (Many) Details

A custom shirt is a little luxury that can make any man feel like Master of the Universe–in the hands of talented tailors, fabric can be coaxed into flattering difficult skin tones, strengthening awkward faces and camouflaging less-than-perfect figures. Think of it as a sort of sartorial sleight-of-hand.

Here at FA2L, we've been lucky enough to enjoy the work of some of the world's best shirt makers–Charvet, Luigi Borrelli and Kiton among them. Most recently, we met the custom director for French label, Zilli. He took some 2o measurements (a "difficult" customer may require 3o) while explaining that he sources fabrics from mills around the world: England, Italy and Switzerland. We chose a sky blue Italian linen. We also chose to add our monogram just below the rib cage, on the left side–hand embroidered in white, with a navy drop shadow, no less.

A month or so later, a lovely box arrived in the mail–and inside was the most beautiful shirt we've ever owned. The collar is crisp, flattering and beautifully mounted; the body is elegantly trim, with long, luxurious tails that tuck perfectly into jeans or khakis; and the monogram is impossibly chic. But then, as the company's US director says, "At Zilli, to be fantastic is a daily task." Our assessment? Mission accomplished.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.

PETROU\MAN: An Officer, Gentleman & Punk

New York is first and foremost the home of classic sportswear, but its runways and showrooms offer plenty of surprises in the realm of "forward" fashion. Last season, we came across an aggressive collection by Nicolas Petrou, who's toiled at other companies more than 15 years but recently launched his own line, PETROU\MAN, for which he's designing clothes refreshingly in and out of sync with current trends.

Diana Vreeland loved to say that Coco Chanel had very little taste, but all of it was good, whereas Elsa Schiaparelli (Chanel's rival, and a spectacularly inventive designer) had loads of taste, most of it bad. In other words, too much "good taste" can sometimes get in the way of good fashion. We happen to like Petrou's clothes because they're beautifully made but slightly outré: there's an odd, raffish quality to these pieces that suggests layers of traditional British tailoring, early-80s punk rebellion (all those safety pins!) plus a dollop of cool minimalism from the mid-90s. That's a lot to juggle, which is undoubtedly why the collection is only being sold at directional stores like Bellhaus, New York, and Joyce, in Hong Kong. (Of course, you can also check with the New York showroom–just call, or write, and ask very, very nicely.) Meanwhile, the safety pin jacket alone is a thing of beauty–worth, perhaps, even a ticket to China.

From top: 1) Wool tweed anorak and stretch pullover by PETROU\MAN. Velvet scarf by Maison Martin Margiela. 2) Wool topcoat, pants and cotton shirt by PETROU\MAN. Cotton scarf by Dior Homme. Boots by Christian Lacroix Homme. 3 & 4) Tie-dyed cotton jacket with safety pin shoulder details and wool drawstring pants by PETROU\MAN. Cotton shirt by Dior Homme. Stainless steel watch by Baume & Mercier. 5) Leather jacket by PETROU\MAN. Cotton shirt by Costume National Homme.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.

A Phoenix From the Ashes: The House of Versace

It's been a long time since we've felt anything more than nostalgic fondness for Versace products, but Donatella & Co recently kicked everything back into high gear. This was evident on Versace runways the last few seasons, and Fall's message is even stronger thanks to Mario Testino's slightly-tacky/mostly-chic (and decidedly in-your-face) ad campaign. All the elements are there: gorgeous girls, gorgeous boys, killer styling and really good clothes (the top photograph alone makes us want to run out and buy that leather jacket). Best of all, there's not a Medusa head, Greek key or logo in sight–which, for the house that Gianni built, truly represents a brave new design stance.

Burberry Prorsum: I'm Shopping As Fast As I Can

It's official: the fashion industry is jumping the shark by letting fashion junkies pre-order men's clothes and accessories that literally just came down the runway. Balmain did it last season–this time, it's Burberry Prorsum (ostensibly for Spring/Summer 2011). So you can buy a sharp cotton trench, a chic studded shoulder bag or a slim navy military coat now, and receive your order well before anyone else sees these products in stores. But it does beg the question–what's next? Perhaps brands will preview their runway shows, so editors, store buyers and other savvy customers can sit in the audience already dressed in the same clothes being shown on the models. By which point, the hamster wheel of fashion will be turning so fast it may all just become a blur.